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Tokyo is a city so large that it’s better to think of as a collection of cities. Including its metropolitan area, the city has a population of 37,000,000. Impossible to get to know well over a few days, a trip to Tokyo only leaves you wishing to come back and explore, another piece at a time.

Tokyo’s streets are a spectacle to behold; an enticing symphony of neon-lit sights, futuristic sounds, and delectable aromas. The city is most rewarding to those who are curious. The unfamiliarity of the Japanese language to most and the limited visibility inside makes each little ramen bar, izakaya, etc. somewhat mysterious. Peep through the tiny door and take a step into the unknown, you won’t regret it.

The sheer size of Tokyo makes it all the more valuable to have inside knowledge, so this issue comes in collaboration with Yukari Sakamoto, a chef, sommelier, shōchū advisor, local food writer and author of Food Sake Tokyo, and market tour operator. Quite the resume! 

Japanese Cuisine 🍜 

Japanese cuisine, or washoku, is a culinary art shaped over centuries. Emphasising rice with miso soup and seasonal ingredients, it incorporates side dishes like fish, pickled vegetables, and broth-cooked vegetables. Seafood, often grilled or served raw as sashimi or in sushi, is prevalent. Noodles like soba and udon are staples, complemented by simmered dishes such as oden and sukiyaki. 

Japan has taken influence from elsewhere for many of its staple dishes, particularly China (Gyoza, Ramen), but also other nations for its versions of spaghetti, curry, and hamburgers. Despite historical aversion to meat due to Buddhism, modernisation in the 1880s lead to popular meat-based dishes like tonkatsu and yakiniku.

Interview: Tackling Tokyo with Yukari Sakamoto 🗼

5 Places That Every Foodie Should Visit in Tokyo

Tokyo is known for restaurants that specialise in one cuisine. The top five I would recommend would be:

1) Kagari Ramen in Ginza for the creamy chicken ramen. 

2) Maisen Tonkatsu in Omotesando for fried pork cutlets.

3) Soba is a very Tokyo dish. I love Sarashina Horii in Azabu Juban for buckwheat noodles. 

4) Yakitori for chicken skewers. The place I am addicted to for Yakitori is Isehiro in the basement of the Daiichi Hotel in Shinbashi. The restaurant originated in 1916 and sometimes the second generation chef is grilling over charcoal coals himself. 

5) Sushi is a must have in Tokyo. There are many high end shops but I recommend trying a conveyor belt sushi for a casual meal. It's a fun meal and impressive to see how good fast food sushi can be. 

How Should One Prepare for Japan?

Learn a few basic phrases. 'Sumimasen’ for excuse me. ‘Arigato’ for thank you. ‘Oishii’ for delicious. Another good one is ‘sono mama’ if you are shopping and you don't need a plastic bag. Another fun tip, if you're lost, look lost, and usually someone will come and help you.

Talk Us Through Your Tours – What Will Participants Learn?

My tours are market tours. We walk and talk through different markets like Tsukiji Market, depachika food halls in the basement of department stores, or local supermarkets. My tours are not grazing tours so we are not stopping to eat food along the way. I will talk about the basics of Japanese food including umami, dashi, fermented foods, and also talk about Japanese food culture and tips for eating Japanese food.

You can learn more about Yukari’s highly-rated and limited space (two people max) tours here!

Something to Avoid

Great question. One thing to avoid is to try and eat only Japanese food. There is incredible Italian food or French food made with Japanese ingredients. I recently had a dreamy meal at est at the Four Seasons Otemachi. Chef Guillaume Bracaval uses about 95% Japanese ingredients for French cuisine. 

Your Favourite Japanese Dish

I love Japanese kissaten which are the retro coffee shops. I go about three to four times a week. I love Hamanoya Parlour in Nihonbashi for a tamago sando with coffee. Handmade udon noodles are also a meal I often go to for breakfast. I love Oniyanma near Shinbashi Station and get the cold udon noodles with a splash of broth and topped with fish cake tempura. Both of these shops are open for breakfast!

A Seasonal Recommendation for Autumn (FITR’s Recommended Time to Visit)

Autumn is a fabulous time for katsuo, skipjack tuna or bonito. A great place to try katsuo is at the Tosa Dining restaurant in Ginza. The katsuo is seared over straw so the outside is smoky and charred but the inside is still raw. 

How to Spend a Day in Tokyo as a Foodie

Start the day with a coffee at Turret Coffee near Tsukiji Market. Visit Tsukiji Market and try a bunch of different foods. Then walk over to Ginza and check out the depachika food halls like Mitsukoshi or Matsuya. Pick up a bento and have it on the rooftop for a picnic lunch. Then take the Ginza subway line up to Tawaramachi Station to visit the Kappabashi Kitchenware District. Then finish the day in Asakusa near Sensoji temple. The area is famous for tempura.

Tokyo, in One Word

Enchanting.

Where Can FITR Readers Find More of Your Content?

I write for several publications including Eater, AFAR, and The Washington Post. You can find me via my:

• Blog

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8 Further Recommendations 📝

Yukari mentioned above that the international cuisine in Tokyo was not to be missed - and she’s spot on. Therefore, these recommendations incorporate both local and international eats.

1. Get a taste of India’s Kerala region at South Park Asakusa.

2. Choose Bogjoli if you’re looking to cure any Korean cravings.

3. Good sushi is everywhere, but Mawashi Sushi Katsu Midori Meguro is a notable recommendation for conveyor belt (more affordable) sushi.

4. 50 Top Pizza ranked The Pizza Bar on 38th at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel as the best Pizzeria in Asia-Pacific and the fourth best in the world in 2023. Heads up - there are only 8 seats, so book in advance!

5. Wagyu can be super expensive, but fret not, Grill Bon’s wagyu sandwiches start from just ¥1100 and pack an incredibly rich flavour.

6. A few presses of a vending machine later and you’ll have some of Tokyo’s best soba noodles at Banninriki.

7. Enjoy the lively and welcoming atmosphere at Not Suspicious bar one night.

8. The small Another8 pub serves brilliant craft beer alongside delectable bites.

Did you know that the number 8 is lucky in Japanese culture? Here’s why.

A Recipe to Make at Home 🧑🏻‍🍳

Traditional Shoyu Ramen

Shoyu ramen features a dark and salty broth made of soy sauce and originates from Tokyo.

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