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Lisbon: Sampling the Aftermath of an Age of Discovery ⛵️

EP6: Rich in history, fresh in taste, Lisbon's culinary scene brings in flavours from across the globe

Welcome to Lisbon, Portugal’s capital, nestled along the banks of the River Tagus. The city boasts a stunning landscape of rolling hills, historic neighbourhoods, and picturesque views.

Lisbon is one of Western Europe's oldest cities, founded by indigenous Iberians, Celts, Phoenicians, and Greeks. After various historical shifts, it fell under Muslim rule in 714. However, in 1147, Christian crusaders led by Afonso I recaptured the city, marking its return to Christian control.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, Lisbon prospered as the epicentre of a vast empire built during an era of extensive maritime exploration known as the Age of Discovery.

Portuguese Maritime Exploration. Credit: StevenHicks.

The Age of Discovery saw Portugal amass significant wealth and influence through colonisation in Asia, South America, Africa, and the Atlantic islands. However, in 1755, the prosperous age ended when a devastating earthquake, fire, and tsunami nearly obliterated the city.

Lisbon rose from the ashes of this tragedy to a modern-day self that is a cool, vibrant city attracting millions of visitors annually. The city is traditional yet modern, with a laid-back feel and a pleasant climate. Lisbon is best taken slow, whether that be walking through its cobbled streets, relaxing at nearby beaches, or observing from one of its many vistas.

Things to Do 🗺

Explore the Neighbourhoods

Lisbon is a city with a rich history and culture, featuring diverse neighbourhoods and landmarks to explore. Notable areas include Alfama, Chiado, and Rossio. Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood, boasts picturesque streets and has multiple iconic landmarks in and around it like Lisbon Cathedral, São Jorge Castle, and Museu de Lisboa. Chiado is renowned for its upscale boutiques, while Rossio presents a medley of shops and eateries to suit various budgets.

Alfama neighbourhood.

Live Fado

Fado, a unique Portuguese music style blending opera and blues, revolves around themes of fate, nostalgia, and everyday stories. It's deeply rooted in Portuguese culture, with "Saudade" (a sense of longing) at its core. Originating in Lisbon in the 19th century, Fado is integral to the nation's identity. Lisbon offers numerous venues, including Casa De Linhares, Páteo De Alfama, and Mesa de Frades, for live Fado performances. You can go one step further and visit the Museum of Fado!

Nearby Day Trips

Lisbon has a host of incredible destinations on its doorstep, including Sintra, located 25km away from Lisbon, nestled up in the hills of the Serra de Sintra, and is easily accessible by public transport. The municipality is home to extravagant palaces, stunning mansions, ancient castle ruins, and spectacular views. Sintra’s main attraction is the Palácio Nacional de Pena, one of the world’s great palaces.

Palácio da Pena, Sintra.

Belem, a picturesque district along the River Tagus west of Lisbon, is steeped in maritime history. Its iconic landmarks include the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, a UNESCO-listed 1495 monastery with stunning Manueline cloisters, and the UNESCO-listed Torre de Belém, an emblematic fortress offering panoramic river views.

Torre de Belém.

Tip: From Belem, jump on the ferry to Trafaria, a quaint fishing village, and cycle west to the beginning of the Caparica Coast. The stretch is 25km long and has golden sandy beaches in abundance.

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Portuguese Cuisine 🇵🇹

Lisbon stands at the crossroads of tradition and modernity, with a culinary scene acclaimed by gastronomes and Europhiles alike, earning Michelin stars and international acclaim.

Due to its extensive Atlantic coastline, Portugal is renowned for its exceptional supply of fresh, locally sourced seafood. Additionally, the Mediterranean climate provides an abundance of fresh vegetables, fruits, olives, and excellent wine.

Portugal’s period of maritime exploration has helped shape Portuguese cuisine and influenced cuisines worldwide, too. For example, the Portuguese introduced chilli peppers to Southeast Asia from South America, tempura to Japan, and the concept of vindaloo to India, a dish originating from ‘carne de vinha d’alhos’.

Must-Try Staple Foods 🐟

Bacalhau

"Bacalhau" is a Portuguese term for codfish, often preserved by drying and salting. It's a significant ingredient in Portuguese cuisine and extends its influence to former Portuguese colonies such as Cape Verde, Angola, Macau, Brazil, and Goa.

Traditionally, cod is not harvested from the waters of Portugal but mostly much further north near Norway. Its popularity stems from Portugal’s Age of Exploration when cod could stay preserved for extended periods. The preparation typically involves soaking salted codfish in water before it can be utilised in diverse cooking methods such as grilling, boiling, frying, or braising.

Bacalhau à bras is one of the nation’s most celebrated dishes and is local to Lisbon, believed to have its roots in the Bairro Alto quarter. The dish involves cooked and shredded salt cod, fried potato strips, onions, eggs, and olives. It's typically garnished with parsley and served hot, preserving the crispy texture of the potatoes.

Bolinhos de bacalhau, a popular Portuguese appetiser, are crafted from a mixture of dry salted cod, mashed potatoes, onions, parsley, eggs, and spices. The cod is soaked, deboned, and shaped into rounds, then fried to a crispy golden brown.

An amazing experience eating either of these Bacalhau dishes can be found at A Casa do Bacalhau ("The Codfish House").

Pastel de Nata (and Pastel de Belém)

Translating to “cream pastry”, a pastel de nata is a traditional Portuguese egg custard that is highly popular worldwide. The tart’s crust should be crispy and flaky, while the egg custard in the middle should be creamy and rich. For best results, to finish, it should be sprinkled with cinnamon and, ideally, paired with a cup of coffee.

Originally created by Catholic monks and nuns in Santa Maria de Belém, Lisbon, before the 18th century, pastel de nata originated from surplus egg yolks used for various purposes. Later, a successful commercial partnership with a nearby bakery led to its widespread popularity.

There are also pastéis de Belém, the predecessor of the pastel de nata, that originated at the Jerónimos Monastery in 1837. Any pastéis (plural) de natas originating from Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, following the original secret recipe, are pastéis de Belém. Anything else in Lisbon is a pastel de nata!

If you don’t fancy taking a tourist pilgrimage to Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém, then the pastéis de natas from Manteigaria (multiple locations) come with high commendations - Travel Onist speaks further about Manteigaria here.

Peixe e Marisco (Fish and Seafood)

The Portuguese make the most of their long coastline, savouring fresh fish and seafood. Various types of fish are relished year-round, including sea bass (robalo), sea bream (dourada), tuna (atum), and Portugal’s most renowned fish, sardinhas (sardines). Prime time to enjoy sardines is early summer when grilled over a charcoal fire and served atop hearty sourdough bread alongside grilled bell pepper salad, all complemented by a delightful local white wine. Cervejaria Ramiro is easily the most famous restaurant in Lisbon for seafood and is well worth queuing for.

Frango Assado Com Piri Piri

Frango assado com piri piri, often simply called frango assado (roasted chicken), typically features a roasted or grilled butterflied whole chicken that is marinated in a blend of olive oil, seasonings, and crushed piri-piri peppers.

The chicken is accompanied by a zesty piri-piri sauce, which consists of a mix of either dried or fresh chili peppers and oil, along with other optional ingredients. The most famous place for piri piri chicken is Bonjardim, known as the “king of the chickens”.

Credit: faimouioui

Piri piri derives from the Swahili word for pepper. Its precise origins remain unclear; it likely began in Africa, blending indigenous South African cuisine with European ingredients like olive oil, lemons, and garlic introduced by Portuguese traders. The sauce's key component, bird's eye chili pepper, originates from South America, and arrived in Africa via Portuguese exploration in the 16th century. The dish gained initial fame in Africa before being introduced to Portugal in the 1970s during the decolonisation period.

10 Further Recommendations 📝

  1. Sample Lisbon under one roof at the modern Time Out Market Lisboa.

  2. Stand and enjoy a drop of ginjinha, a Portuguese wine liquor made from sour cherries, at A Ginjinha.

  3. Many a diner at the cosy Taberna Sal Grosso label it their favourite restaurant in Lisbon.

  4. Getting a table at O Velho Eurico is super difficult but oh so worth it.

  5. PSI is a great vegetarian restaurant serving up local and international favourites.

  6. Devour a Prego (seasoned steak roll) from Gambrinus.

  7. Be entertained by the live music and exceptional wine at Grapes & Bites.

  8. Enjoy a local wine tasting and cheese lunch with this tour.

  9. Lisbon is home to many exquisite foods from former colony nations including top-rated Mozambican restaurant Cantinho do Aziz.

  10. Plus, Comida de Santo is a little family-run spot specialising in food from the Brazilian state of Bahia.

60 Seconds: Lisbon ⌛️

This week, we’re with Lisbon food expert Mariana for an insight into Lisbon’s culinary scene.

Favourite place to eat

Very hard one, I'm always changing and looking for new ones, but the most recent one that surprised me and that I am coming back very soon (and again as I don't repeat restaurants, I think this says a lot about this place) is Cobaia in Alvalade.

Favourite bar

Toca Da Raposa, stunning drinks and space

A hot take

Anyone that says they don't like fish is because they haven't tried ours!!

Favourite neighbourhood

Príncipe Real or Santos

A hidden gem

Quiosque de São Paulo, a small quiosque with delicious Portuguese "petiscos" - tapas in Portuguese.

Lisbon, in one word

Light, I lived in the UK for 3 years and if there's something I missed it is the light of Lisbon, there's nothing like it, the way it illuminates the colourful buildings! Stunning.

Favourite Portuguese Dish

Fried Cuttlefish w/ lemon on top w/ a good side salad at an amazing river view terrace, preferably in Setúbal.

A Recipe to Make at Home 🧑🏻‍🍳

Pastéis de Nata

Go one step further: Take your cooking skills beyond this recipe with the top-rated Lisboeta: Recipes from Portugal’s of Light cookbook.  

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