Bologna: La Dotta, La Grassa, La Rossa 🐖

EP2: Unravel the heart of Bologna through its nicknames, culinary glory, and iconic medieval architecture

Welcome to Bologna, whose irresistible charm lies in its simplicity; it is a city that enjoys a perfect blend of old-world beauty and modern vibrancy.

The city has a rich history dating back to the Bronze Age and was initially founded as Felsina by the Etruscans before later becoming Bononia under Gaulish rule and playing a significant role during the Roman Empire.

We can learn much about Bologna from its three nicknames: La Dotta, La Grassa, and La Rossa.

La Dotta, La Grassa, La Rossa 🐖

La Dotta (“The Learned”) refers to the University of Bologna, founded in 1088 and one of the oldest universities in the world.

La Grassa (“The Fat”) is Bologna’s famous culinary tradition. The city is one of the world’s great food capitals. Bologna’s history has helped shape its culinary scene by being at the crossroads of important trade routes, providing exposure to various ingredients and influences, an influx of international students for centuries bringing culinary traditions, and its long-standing prosperity allowing citizens to purchase high-quality ingredients.

La Rossa (“The Red”) refers to the red colour of many of the city’s rooftops, an iconic feature of its architecture.

Italy’s Culinary Capital 🇮🇹

Bologna is a place where plates arrive piled high with ribbons of tagliatelle, smothered in strong and rich Parmigiano Reggiano, where ham hocks hang from the ceiling and where Pignoletto flows freely.

This city takes great pride in its dedication to high-quality ingredients and traditional cooking methods. Bologna is surrounded by fertile farmland and is known as the "food basket" of Italy.

Things to Do 🗺

Exploring Bologna’s historical buildings feels like a journey through time, where the city's rich heritage and captivating architecture come to life. The magnificent Piazza Maggiore stands at its core, a grand square filled with historical importance. Surrounded by iconic structures like the Palazzo Comunale and the Palazzo del Podestà, the square's grandeur evokes a bygone era.

Great Rennaissance cathedral of San Petronio in Bologna, Piazza Maggiore. Via Unsplash.

Asinelli and Garisenda towers

The towers were constructed by rival noble families during the 12th century amid political and religious conflicts. These towers symbolised power, prestige and served both defensive and offensive purposes. Families competed to build the tallest and most impressive towers, showcasing their wealth and influence. The Asinelli Tower reached a height of about 70 meters, while the Garisenda Tower was slightly shorter but leaning due to land subsidence. In the 14th century, the Garisenda Tower was lowered to prevent collapse. In contrast, the Asinelli Tower survived various challenges, was raised to 97m and remains accessible to visitors who can climb its 498 steps for a panoramic view.

Aerial view from Asinelli Tower - via Unsplash.

Go underground

Uncover Bologna's hidden history on a unique underground tour. Beneath the glass-floored Salaborsa in Piazza Maggiore, ancient remains from Bononia are waiting to be explored. Succede solo a Bologna's Sunday afternoon tour grants access to four closed crypts, revealing intriguing secrets from the past.

San Michele in Bosco

This former monastery-turned-hospital offers jaw-dropping views of the city. A Renaissance corridor provides a unique view of the 318ft Asinelli Tower, while peaceful frescoed cloisters await downstairs.

Eat as a guest in a Bolognese house

Experience private dining at a local's home, savouring exclusive show cooking and authentic recipes passed down by Italian "Mammas." Enjoy a 4-course menu with drinks, connecting with the warmth of Italian hospitality and the locals.

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5 Must-Try Staple Dishes 🖐🏻

  1. Tagliatelle al ragù alla Bolognese is the queen of traditional dishes in Bologna. This traditional Italian dish features tagliatelle pasta accompanied by a rich ragù, the original bolognese sauce featuring slow-cooked minced beef and pork, along with flavourful tomatoes as key ingredients. At Osteria Bottega, the tagliatelle comes with either the traditional Bolognese ragù or a divine white culatello di Zibello sauce.

  1. Another of the region's renowned specialities is tortellini, a delicately filled pasta pouch. To savour it like a local, ask for a plate of Tortellini in brodo (broth). The authentic recipe calls for crafting fresh egg pasta and filling it with Emilian-origin meats (such as mortadella, prosciutto, etc.) and parmesan cheese. Trattoria dal Biassanot in the city centre is a special place to enjoy this Bolognese classic.

  1. Mortadella is a beloved sausage with a rich flavour and history. Mortadella is finely hashed or ground cured pork, incorporating at least 15% small cubes of pork fat, often flavoured with black pepper grains or pistachio. The best-known version is Mortadella Bologna PGI. The Mortadella is a family pride at Artigian Quality, which collaborates with top local farms in the wild Bolognese hills to provide high-quality ingredients.

  1. Cotoletta Petroniana pays homage to Petronius, a fifth-century bishop and the patron saint of Bologna. This dish sees thin slices of veal or chicken tenderised, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and then fried in butter. Afterwards, they are baked in the oven with a spoonful of meat broth, topped with a slice of prosciutto crudo and Grana cheese shavings. The crowning touch comes with a generous garnish of shaved truffles before serving. Enthusiasts of Cotoletta Petroniana will love Al Cambio, relishing classic dishes that are simple yet delectable.

  1. Balanzoni is a lesser-known yet traditional Italian pasta delicacy. It comprises large, green tortellini-like pasta filled with a delightful mixture of ricotta, spinach, eggs, Parmigiano Reggiano, and finely chopped mortadella or pork loin. Balanzone 157 makes for a great lunch spot, offering various kinds of pasta of outstanding quality.

Trattoria vs Osteria vs Ristorante vs Enoteca

A guide to the types of Italian restaurants: what is the difference between a Trattoria vs Osteria vs Ristorante vs Enoteca?

Traditionally:

  • Trattoria: Casual eatery with regional dishes

  • Osteria: Welcoming wine-focused place with simple food

  • Ristorante: Formal restaurant with a diverse menu and ambience

  • Enoteca: Wine bar

The distinctions between Trattoria, Osteria, Ristorante, and Enoteca in Italy have blurred over time. Osterias resemble trattorias, and some trattorias adopt the "osteria" label for sociable ambience. Ristorantes offer a homely atmosphere with culinary excellence. Enotecas now serve light appetisers with wine.

10 Further Recommendations 📝

  1. A one-stop shop for many of Bologna’s best offerings can be found at La Salumeria di Bruno e Franco.

  2. Sample over 100 cheeses at Formaggeria Barbieri, run by the Barbieri family since 1968.

  3. Enjoy the cultural ritual of Aperitivo at Italy’s oldest tavern, Osteria del Sole.

  4. Try iconic pistachio gelato at Gelateria Galliera 49.

  5. Gamberini is the oldest pastry shop in Bologna, dating back to 1907.

  1. You’ll find delectable sweet, savoury pastries and coffee at Caffetteria Pasticceria Simiani.

  2. For generous servings and late-night Cotoletta alla Bolognese, head to Il Mulino Bruciato.

  3. Try Friggione (a traditional white onion and tomato dish) at Buca Manzoni.

  4. Treat yourself to Crema Fritta, a small fried piece of custard cream with a subtle lemon scent, at Paolo Atti e Figli.

  5. Lortica offers a great selection of craft beer and natural wines.

Tip: When in Bologna, reserve the top restaurants at least one week in advance.

60 Seconds: Bologna ⏳

This issue, we’re with Monica Campagnoli, writer and cook behind Tortellini&Co, for a local’s insight into Bologna’s culinary scene.

Favourite places to eat

  • Trattoria de me

  • Trattoria Seghei

  • Antica Osteria Romagnola

Favourite bar/drinks spots

  • Ruggine

  • Camera con Vista

  • Casa Minghetti

Favourite neighbourhood

The little towns of Imola and Dozza.

Hidden gems

  • Don’t skip eating/drinking when at Piazza Aldrovandi! My favourite stalls are Sorbole (fish), Ragu, and Sottobanco (Apulian style).

  • Osteria del Sole (since 1465). You bring your own food and only buy wine there.

  • Pigro: pure Bolognese style (wine and Mortadella)

  • The Archiginnasio is one of the most significant buildings in the city: located in the heart of the historic centre, it was the place of the first and ancient University and is now home to the municipal library. You can visit part of the structure and the amazing porticoes on the second floor (no ticket needed). Inside Archiginnasio, there is a hidden gem: the Gabinetto Anatomico. Find tickets here.

Bologna, in one word

Medieval.

Favourite local ingredient

Mortadella Bologna and Salame Rosa.

A Recipe to Make at Home 🧑🏻‍🍳

Tortellini in brodo

Or you can find a web version of Tortellini in brodo here.

Go one step further: Take your cooking beyond this recipe with Recipes from Bologna: The traditional food from the Capital of Italian Cuisine cookbook.

🌍📨 Global Showcase

This week, we’re looking at The Dusty Knuckle in Dalston, UK, which goes beyond baking exceptional goods. They also support struggling youth by offering work experience and conducting food and baking classes in nearby schools and youth clubs.

To submit a restaurant or other food business that you believe deserves a shout-out, submit your entry on Instagram or Twitter. Entries can be located anywhere in the world!

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